According to the great travel writer Jan Morris "Wherever you go in life, you will feel somewhere over your shoulder a pink, castellated shimmering presence, the domes and riggings and crooked pinnacles of La Serenissima". And it's true, once seen, Venice is never to be forgotten. As you leave the mainland behind and cross the lagoon, in a private taxi or a waterbus, Venice will rise up out of the water and take your breath away.
In little more than five square kilometres, you'll find architectural marvels, structural miracles, and artistic treasures, packed into a City which also beats with the heart of modern travellers, shoppers and party-goers. The works of great artists hang side by side, next to designer shops and artisan workshops, and Gondoliers, taxis like no others, weave their way between streets filled with tourists and residents, going about their business.
Venice's history begins with a group of fishing huts, passes through eras where it was a world-leading centre of trade, and latterly, it has become a slightly faded, but greatly loved jewel in the crown of the world. Unique and overwhelming sights are displayed across the City, indoors and outdoors, exhibited in showcase churches and major galleries, and hidden away in side streets and backwaters.
You can start with a map, but it's so easy to get lost in its medieval streets that it's easier to accept the inevitable, and just let yourself go. Sooner or later, you'll emerge into a square or a main thoroughfare, but in the meantime, keep your eyes open and your senses alert, in short, let Venice get to you.
Venice is situated in
northern Italy and is the capital of the
Veneto region . The population is divided between the city centre, the mainland districts of Mestre and Marghera, and spread across 117 small islands in the lagoon.
The
Republic of Venice was a major maritime power during the
Middle Ages and
Renaissance , and a centre of commerce, especially the silk, grain and
spice trade , and a focal point for art in the 13th century up to the end of the 17th century. This made Venice a wealthy city throughout most of its history. It is also known for its several important artistic movements, especially the
Renaissance period . Venice has played an important role in the history of symphonic and operatic music, and it is the birthplace of
Antonio Vivaldi .
Venice began to lose its position as a centre of
international trade during the later part of the
Renaissance as
Portugal became Europe's principal intermediary in the trade with the East, while France and Spain fought Italy in the
Italian Wars , marginalising its political influence. However, the Venetian empire remained a major exporter of agricultural products and, until the mid-18th century, a significant
manufacturing centre.
The buildings of Venice are constructed of stone or brick, with foundations of closely spaced wooden
piles , many of which are still intact despite having been underwater for hundreds of years. The piles are submerged in oxygen-poor conditions wherethe wood decays less slowly thanon the surface; Theconstant flow of water rich in minerals causes the wood to petrifyso that it becomes stone-like.
During the 20th century, when many
artesian wells were sunk into the periphery of the lagoon to draw water for local industry, Venice began to
subside . To this day, the city is still threatened by frequent low-level floods known as 'acquaalta, or high water' that creep to a height of several centimetres over its quays, regularly following certain tides.
All year round, Venice is packed with tourists, frantically bustling from great masterpiece to historic church, queuing for museums and galleries, and trying desperately to get their bearings between important sights. The best thing to do is identify a few 'must sees', from the enormous hoard of treasures that Venice has to offer, and spend a long time getting there, exploring streets and canals, alleyways and squares, stopping wherever you like to take in the atmosphere and admire the very fabric of the city.
You won't want to miss St Mark's Square, however. Napoleon dubbed the Square the 'finest drawing room in Europe', and it's been a magnetic draw for visitors and pigeons for centuries. Cafe orchestras duel note for note accompanied by cooing birds as harried waiters weave in and out to pander to alfresco diners.
The Square's two columns bear emblems of the city's patron saints: the winged lion of St Mark and the figure of St Theodore. There are breathtaking views to be experienced from the Campanile (bell tower). When the acquaalta (high tide) encroaches, St Mark's Square, being one of the lowest parts of the city, is one of the first to be covered in water - in the moonlight it makes for a magical sight.
Keep an eye out for concerts and recitals too, they happen all the time across the City, and are a great way to appreciate several masterpieces at once.
Venice is quietest between October and March. But even solitary types will find that some Venetian experiences are better in a crowd, Aim to stay at least one night in the so you can see what happens when the crowd thins out and the moon rises.
For those who love a party, it's worth the extra expense to be in town for the masquerade balls during Carnevale, gala art openings for the Biennale, or the star-studded premieres at the Venice International Film Festival. The busiest months for traditional festivities are May through September.
Bone-chilling weather in January and February can bring fabulous blue skies, while the heaviest rains fall between December and March, July and August tend to be hot and muggy, but if you get uncomfortable, make like a Venetian on vacation and escape to Lido beaches or the Riviera Brenta.
From the famous grand palazzos to great numbers of small independently run hotels, there's something for everyone in Venice. Given the number of canals which run through the city you've a fair chance of a water view, whatever you choose, and there's no limit to the choices when it comes to bars and restaurants. Beware inflated tourist prices , especially in high summer, and try to do a little undercover research if you can to find out where the locals and the people in the know, go to eat and drink. Despite reports to the contrary, it is possible to have a wonderful time in Venice without breaking the bank.
Venice is a destination unlike any other in the world. Here West meets East, and history is built into the walls, hanging from the ceilings and dripping from the chandeliers. Every corner tells a story and if you allow it to, Venice will make its way into your bones and your heart, just as the water creeps quietly round the foundations of this wonderful City.
